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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, really the only place that I can see that has any amount of rust is under the hood. I wonder do I need to do anything to keep it from spreading? Should I take that insulation off and put new? I wonder if more rust is under there.

Thanks!

 

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A few things you can do. That is very minor rust. You can blast it, convert it, sand/wire brush it, or use POR15 on it. Be sure to get under the insulation too.
 

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:agree do not sandblast it, daughters BF got crazy with mine and i ended up working on it for two weeks to flatten out the warpage.
 

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You could just buy one of the Harbor Frieght bucket blasters (If you have a decent size compressor) and do that spot since it's on the underside.

Just don't get crazy. Industrial sandblasters will warp panels because of the pressure/volume they put out.

A home blaster is pretty safe, just don't concentrate on one spot too much.
 

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Honestly what I would do is just hit it with a hand held wire brush to knock off the scale, and put some POR15 on it. If I were going to blast it, I would use a small hand held speed blaster and remove the hood to do it. If that is all the car has that thing is super clean.
 

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Yeah, you might want to take the hood off the car for some sandblasting :lol:.

It gets everywhere. :willy:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys. I won't say this is the ONLY place, but I've posted allot of underside pics too and you can see shes pretty clean. It has lived in Cali and Texas its whole life (was made in Cali). The lack of rust was one of the reasons I bought this car. Plus it has only 1 dent in it. The rest is just scuffs in the paint. I will admit that one dent is really bugging me, I might see if a body shop can smooth it out. It is above the driver side rear almost at the top.

I'll go ahead and try sanding it. I'm not too crazy about the blasting idea, plus I'd need to buy a blaster. I already have a wire brush and sand paper. Would Autozone have POR15?
 

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Tell you what I'd do because of where it is - I'd hit it with a wire brush and sand paper, the goal being to get all the loose stuff off that you can. Then I hit it with some of this stuff, enough to make sure all the rust was "handled" --- then paint with a flat black that matches the rest of the hood underside, and call it good.

Bear
 

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I would use a wire brush and sand paper and get all the scale off and then hit it with some POR15 or rust converter. If that is truly all there is on that section..... this is the route I would take, due to ease of not having to remove the hood. I would also replace the hood insulation and then paint entire underside to match the repair. IMO.
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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I'm with Bear. I use Eastwood Rust Converter on EVERYTHING I sand/blast/scrape/wipe. I've gone thru a dozen aerosol cans on the GTO and Chevelle now. Once dry, you can paint right over it as a base primer.
I WOULD remove the entire mat and inspect. IF you are careful to use a needle nose pliers to release the clips and scrape the mat loose where it is glued, you could re-use it all.
 

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I have done what Bear suggested a few years back with one of my projects and it flat worked. Same deal: surface rust issue in a localized area with no structural issues....the converter stuff was amazing. I painted it, and you can not tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I found more rust! :(

This is the first I emptied out the trunk, it had all the old parts from the motor, spare tire, 2 full size and a indoor cover. Anyway, he had this rubber type flooring in it. A little bit of rust caught my eye when taking out the tires so I pulled everything and found a nasty mess under that rubber pad. Some spots were still damp! I can only imagine it got wet when he cleaned it. I tested the weather strip and it don't leak. Plus I have a cover on it and when I washed the car I use a blower and wipe the seals. So I am positive I didn't put it there.

Well I took out the wire brush and sand paper. I think I need something more aggressive to get it out, it looks a little better. What grit sand paper do you use? I killed my wire brush. Should I use Eastwood Rust Converter here too?



 

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thats all you need to do with the converter or POR 15 it turns the rust into carbon and encapsulates it from moisture, leak is most likely around your rear window molding, these cars are notorious for that with the fastback fins and they set lower stock than most these days so when you lift the back the water will run toward the window channel and pool under the trim, water will find the path of least resistance and flow downhill so a little pinhole is all it takes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wow, didn't know the window would leak into the trunk. I think you are right. Window seal is toast. But I did use my blower to blow all the water out from under the trim. I guess itI could have got in there while I was washing it and before I blew it out.

So it was likely both the PO and myself that put the water in there.
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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:agree You don't want to remove all the rust or the converter doesn't work. What you've done is good. And that isn't a nasty mess. That is near mint compared to what I and others, have to work with...:eek:

 

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Discussion Starter #18
lol, thanks for the tips. Good to know about not removing all the rust. If you seen the back of the rubber mat it was a nasty mess. I do fear I need to drop the tank as I can see some rust that looks like my hood above the tank.
 

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Sorry to say, your trunk looks really good, my 70 looked the same way 6 months after I redid it, had a rear window leak. Put rust all over my new floor mat. I used the silver por-15 in my entire trunk and rust wont' be an issue again. I haven't used the rust encapsulator and I'm sure it's good stuff. POR-15 is just the best stuff, $50 a quart, paint it on and you are done, unless you want to top coat it.
 

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When I worked at the Airport one of the mechanics had a 66 Malibu. It was a very very nice driver restoration. He used the seam sealer that they use on the planes. It is silver and it is a 2 part seam sealer called B 1/2. This stuff is 10x tougher then silicone but as pliable. He put it under the window trim front and back. Looks like he filled the channel then added the trim to the clips and then used denatured alcohol to smooth it out and cut it back to just a tiny bit pasted the trim to the window and body. It looked very professional. You had to get right up on it to see it was there. Even then it was hard to see. That kept all the water and debris out from under the trim. No more rot. I have 2 sets of it. I wish I had more. Company perks.;)
 
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