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Hi all,
SO we finally got the 66 GTO running (eventually figured the HEI distributor was the culprit) and even though its a long way away I wanted to see what i should expect with regards to paint and body. The car right now in primer grey and the body is in somewhat straight condition however i can see some bondo work on one of the rear quarter panels but other than that it seems fairly rust free. I am content with a daily driver paint job that looks good and i dont have a need or desire for a full show paint job that i would be afraid to drive on the weekends, plus i dont think that the full show paint job is in the budget. The car is a California car that has been garage for a large portion of its life and has sat for the last 20 years so alot of wear and tear that i have seen on other vehicles, i dont see on it. Any recommendations or experiences shared would be greatly appreciated and if there any body shops recommendations in the Folsom/Sacramento area i am all ears.

Thanks in advance,
Jason
 

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Hi all,
SO we finally got the 66 GTO running (eventually figured the HEI distributor was the culprit) and even though its a long way away I wanted to see what i should expect with regards to paint and body. The car right now in primer grey and the body is in somewhat straight condition however i can see some bondo work on one of the rear quarter panels but other than that it seems fairly rust free. I am content with a daily driver paint job that looks good and i dont have a need or desire for a full show paint job that i would be afraid to drive on the weekends, plus i dont think that the full show paint job is in the budget. The car is a California car that has been garage for a large portion of its life and has sat for the last 20 years so alot of wear and tear that i have seen on other vehicles, i dont see on it. Any recommendations or experiences shared would be greatly appreciated and if there any body shops recommendations in the Folsom/Sacramento area i am all ears.

Thanks in advance,
Jason
Autobody work can't be nailed down in a guesstimate. Prices are all over the place depending on who does it. Being in primer means nothing. I don't think most shops will work with someone else's layer of primer because if the top color they spray doesn't stick over time - who you going to blame?

Personally, if I had a shop, I would want to strip it to bare metal and see what is under the primer. Then once evaluated as to work needed, go from there with body work quote, paint quote, and any post painting work like sanding/buffing.

So it won't be inexpensive if that is what you are asking. The price of primers, paints and materials today are expensive, not what I used to pay 30+ years ago. These guys seem to get $100 an hour or more depending on the shop.

So it could cost you $3,500 - $10,000, but you simply need to shop around to see. I would also get a firm price on the work, and not an open-ended price where you pay by the hour until the shop finishes. At good shop will know what it takes to do body repairs and paint. If they can't give you a firm number as to cost, then look elsewhere until you find a shop that will nail a solid price and honor it.

Option #2 is spray bomb or brush paint the car. One reason you see some cars that don't get the body work/paint and are called "survivors" and enjoyed as is on the outside, and completely rebuilt/refurbed on the inside and under the hood.
 

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If you spray bomb. I recommend the trigger attachment. It keeps me from spraying my fingers and dripping it every where. My kids complaint with their 4H projects.
 

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Agree with PJ on the point of shops and there ways. I investigate car guys in the area you know to point you in the right direction. There are little guys out there in baskyard shops that do good work , Like the saying goes “good work is not cheap, cheap work is not good”
 

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One thought, some shops might not be getting the work they normally do as business is down with pandemic. I happened into a deal with a collision shop that was lacking business from people not driving as much in April last year. Now, I knew a guy working there who clued me into it ( not what you know, it’s who you know) so just something to think about. What would’ve cost closer to $15k+ was $11k out the door cash. Took whole car down to metal, complete disassembly and painted correctly. It’s not concourse quality but it’s freaking beautiful I can drive it anywhere. They had over 250 hours into body work not including paint or polish/wet sand down to 2500 grit.
I only know the hours because my friend was the one doing body work. Shop probably lost money but they made payroll in April 2020 when my area around Seattle was literally shut down.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey guys, Thanks for the input.
I completely want them to strip it down to bare metal, Who knows what is hiding under the primer. If i could find a place to do it under 15K (with no major issues) that would be awesome but i have heard horror stories of people spending 35K-55K on just a paint job and there is no way that would ever work. I am just trying to manage my expectations in what i have to save (and how much) before i can realistically have it painted. I am figuring on it taking about two years until we are ready to have it painted. That gives me time to get replacements for the trim, molding and emblems that needs to be replaced that way i am not putting worn out chrome on new fresh paint. I am super lucky because the stock black vinyl interior is in really good condition, not perfect but better than average for the original so other than the trunk, and the wood grain on the dash, that is one less thing that i have to worry about.

V/r Jason
 

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Hey guys, Thanks for the input.
I completely want them to strip it down to bare metal, Who knows what is hiding under the primer. If i could find a place to do it under 15K (with no major issues) that would be awesome but i have heard horror stories of people spending 35K-55K on just a paint job and there is no way that would ever work. I am just trying to manage my expectations in what i have to save (and how much) before i can realistically have it painted. I am figuring on it taking about two years until we are ready to have it painted. That gives me time to get replacements for the trim, molding and emblems that needs to be replaced that way i am not putting worn out chrome on new fresh paint. I am super lucky because the stock black vinyl interior is in really good condition, not perfect but better than average for the original so other than the trunk, and the wood grain on the dash, that is one less thing that i have to worry about.

V/r Jason
You can follow my build thread if youd like so you can see the condition of my car. Just search through my profile and you should find the thread. The guy is charging me $10k for single stage paint. I had some other shops quote $18k+ for single stage.
 

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You can follow my build thread if youd like so you can see the condition of my car. Just search through my profile and you should find the thread. The guy is charging me $10k for single stage paint. I had some other shops quote $18k+ for single stage.
Was the 10K just for paint, or did they do bodywork as well. I checked out your build and it looked you did alot of the body work yourself.
 

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I have been painting my own cars and motorcycles for about 30 years. As others have mentioned and as you can guess, the big expense is... everything that's required to paint a car, but that actually has nothing to do with painting the car! If yours is primed, then correct, no one will spray over it. There're many different primers and some will lift if you top coat them with the wrong paint or reducer. Unless you know what primer was used, even if it's visually perfect, it's still really risky and it could lift.

Also, what color "was" the car? Yes it's primed, but were the jambs all primed too, or are they the original color? If the car was red and you're painting it gold, then the jambs need to be done, too, and that's a big expense.

If it were me and I wanted the best bang for the buck, I get the body work done privately, as best as possible, take all of the chrome off myself, paint the jambs myself, and then show up with it to a paint shop ready for paint and primer. Then you could get it looking top notch, no major runs or blemishes, for under $3000.

Color also matters! Stick to solids (black and white) because you can literally repair them with any black or white and rarely notice. If you do get a run or fisheye in white or black, you can let it dry, sand it off, and just repaint and buff it out. OTOH, metal flakes will have different consistencies and concentrations of the metallics, and on fresh paint they can't be touched up very easily... let alone EVER after the car is done.

There are many ways to save on paint... Including doing it yourself. If you can use a rattle can without getting fisheyes and runs, then you can buy a spray gun from Home Depot and shoot it yourself, especially if black or white will do. I painted a 2000 Trans Am, black, in a dirt floor chicken coupe, with single stage paint from Napa. Wet sanded it, buffed it out, and won shows with it. Solid colors are very forgiving. White even more so.

I also just painted a guitar for a young man, who couldn't even afford auto paint. I bought him a quart of Rustoleum (who now offers many colors) and you can simply add automotive hardner to it and reduce it with acetone. It'll flow like auto paint and be bullet proof!
 

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here's a few photos of paint/bodywork. They certainly did paint all the jambs etc. removing all the body parts to paint in the crevices. There was filler used where needed for sure. As you can see - I had some holes; however, this is a driver not a museum car. They also braced up a huge bow in the hood caused by my crappy springs/hinges over the years and I was able to keep original sheetmetal. It also included a wet sand / polish down to 2500 grit. In my mind - worth every penny. IMG_84971.jpg IMG_86151.jpg IMG_83901.jpg IMG_61481.jpg IMG_84971.jpg IMG_60841.jpg IMG_85051.jpg IMG_86311.jpg IMG_86181.jpg IMG_84261.jpg
 
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