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Discussion Starter #1
Got my painter to come look at my car. Going to be taking it to him shortly. But he is steering me in the direction of a urethane paint job instead of a base coat clear coat. He swears that if I use the urethane and take it and have it wheeled with a machine I wont ever have to worry about it again and that it will have a deeper shine than BC/CC.

Im going to be painting Orbit Orange if that matters.

Please I would love to hear the pros and cons from people who have actually had experience with either type. I need to make up my mind.
 

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Got my painter to come look at my car. Going to be taking it to him shortly. But he is steering me in the direction of a urethane paint job instead of a base coat clear coat. He swears that if I use the urethane and take it and have it wheeled with a machine I wont ever have to worry about it again and that it will have a deeper shine than BC/CC.

Im going to be painting Orbit Orange if that matters.

Please I would love to hear the pros and cons from people who have actually had experience with either type. I need to make up my mind.
Eh? Modern base coat/clear coat systems ARE urethane, so I don't follow what he's saying.

Single stage is definitely easier/faster for a painter to lay down, only one step as opposed to two, so they get done faster (and get paid faster, which might be the real reason he's steering you that way).

Also consider this, "down the road" when you have the inevitable scratch or nick, repairing it with clear coat is easier to bring it back to 100% as long as the damage doesn't get into the base. Also with cc, you've got a little more wiggle room to be able to buff it out again in the future to bring the gloss back. Single stage urethanes are in actuality a combination of base/clear mixed together, so you don't have as much surface avialable to buff before you start breaking through the gloss.

I could have it all wrong, but I'd be cautious...

Bear
 

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:agree

I've been looking ahead and reading up on paints and what I would like for my car. I'm headed the BC/CC urethane at this point. I've seen that they are now making a BC/CC polyurethane, but I doubt they will have my color..

-Thor
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You guys sure dont make it easy. I asked this same question over on PYforums and most them liked Single Stage.
 

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Single stage is a cheaper paint job, and more for the DIYer. But, it doesn't last as long. I have shot Synth enamel, acrylic enamel, and base clear. All look good in the garage, but it's all about how long they last and how much buffing you have to do to bring it back. BC CC urethane is the most durable, but go with your budget and abilities. Don't waste your time on high end paint if it's your first try, just get a Kirker or whatever kit off ebay and try your hand at paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Jetstang,

Im not painting it. Im dropping it off to a paint shop tomorrow.

i might just go with Nason BC/CC
 

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See if you have a supplier in your area for Matrix Paint, will probably have to seek out a Body shop supply. Is a good high quality paint and they hooked me up for around $375.00 for base and Premium clear.
 

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Jetstang,

Im not painting it. Im dropping it off to a paint shop tomorrow.

i might just go with Nason BC/CC
I wouldn't use Nason --- here's why: Nason is good stuff for production work where the important consideration is being able to do lots of work in a short period of time. It's not really "el cheapo", it's just that it was never intended to be a finish that's "lifetime" in nature. Most of the time, by the time it starts to wear and degrade, the car will have been sold.

I too have been struggling with the SS vs. BC/CC question. I'm going with black on my car, and I hear that the "deepest, richest, most vibrant color" is what you get with SS, but BC/CC is much more durable, able to withstand UV light, easier to repair and to buff to restore the gloss "down the road", etc. It's not that there's a huge difference in how they look, there's not - in fact it would probably take someone with tons of experience and who knows what to look for to be able to tell the difference in appearance.

So, I'm going with BC/CC and I'm using "the good" PPG products - DBC for the base, and the best Southern Polyurethanes clear over it. I'm using PPG just because SPI doesn't make base colors, otherwise I'd be using theirs.

I do have experience with their Epoxy Primer and I love it ---- the stuff lays down smoothly, doesn't run, and is tough as nails ---- once it's cured, even rubbing with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner will barely phase it. I tested that and it took a good minute or so of pretty aggressive rubbing to get it to begin to soften.

Anyway, I'm going with BC/CC because I'm going to keep this car "forever" and I'm also going to enjoy it --- which means there will be times that it will sit out in the hot sun at shows, maybe a day at the track, probably will drive it to work very occasionally --- so I want the most durable finish on it that I can get. That tips the scale in my case towards BC/CC.

If you want the absolute best possible appearance and are less concerned with durability and life, then go with SS.

If however, you're going to sell the car to perhaps make some money on it, and want it to look good "now" without being all that concerned about how it's going to look in 10 years, then go with Nason (or some other "production" line product like PPG Omni).

Bear
 

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Okay, here's my take, and my personal experience: Basecoat/clearcoat cars do not look correct. They are too "wet" looking. The cars did not look like this when new. I was there, and I remember. (the cars DID fade in about 4 years and need a repaint, though!!) Watch "Two Lane Blacktop" and take a look at that brand new '70 OO GTO. That's what they looked like. Shiny, but not a glazed ham. I have yet to see a basecoat/clearcoat paint job last longer than 10-15 years before the clear starts to peel like sunburn. I had a "show" paint job done in base/clear a long time ago (different materials and technology than today) and it held up for 9 years. Looked great for a while, though. The single stage enamel on my '65 is 26 years old, and the single stage enamel on my '67 is 18 years old. People ask me now "where did you get your car painted?" Professional body men all shoot 2 stage now. It's the era, and the technology. Almost nobody bothers with lowly single stage paint. Maybe it IS better, like bondo is better than lead filling. I don't know. I'm no painter. I do know that single stage looks correct, outlasts any base-clear paint job, and will always be my own choice for any classic car. When I see base/clear paint jobs holding up for 25 years that look correct, I might change my tune. Till then, it's single stage all the way!!!!!
 

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paint technology in the 60s was crapola. the urethanes are much better now. as far as looks go a black 1969 judge recently brought over 600k at an auction. it was painted bc/cc.
 

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you will be happy with the nason if you plan to sand and buff it. the main problem with cheaper b/c is color match. this applies mostly to late model cars with fancy mica/pearl. you wouldnt want to paint the fender on a new lexus with nason because it for sure would not match, but straight orange on an old gto is very basic and no problem. especially with an all over job. the higher priced clears can be laid down very smooth and wont die back like the cheaper clear. however unless you can get it on with almost no trash you will be buffing it. the cheap clear buffs out just as nice as the expensive stuff. we painted the quarters and roof of a mustang with cheap clear then buffed it and the ppg rep couldnt tell us which panels were cheap clear and which was his "good stuff". a good body shop can make the cheap stuff look good and a crappy work will look bad with the most expensive paint available.
 

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:agree A paint shop told me color is just color, the quality of the clear will dictate how long it lasts. Cheap clear and lack of material is why BC/CC cars peal. They didn't put enough clear on the car to make it hold up. Corvettes and other higher end cars don't have clear peal issues. My body shop buddy is painting a friends car using all PPG products, and it cost $950 for the paint supplies. A gallon of quality clear is over $300 while cheap clear is under $100. There is a difference.
 

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In Fresno, Corvettes, BMW's, Mercedes, Jaguar, and Rolls Royce's peel. They go about 10 or 12 years sometimes, but they all shed clearcoat like skin. Factory top of the line paint jobs. We have something like 60 days a year that are over 100 degrees, and it's a dry, low humidity bake. I've never seen a cleared 25 year old paint job that looked good. Not out here in CA. That said, I know that I'm old fashioned, outmoded, just plain stubborn, and possibly wrong about my "love" for single stage....
 

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piss poor maintenance is what causes paint to fail- every paint will suffer uv degradation over time. A high solids clear like PPG or Dupont offers superior UV protection when new but without twice yearly waxing( actually cc sealer- but thats a different topic) you can see UV breakdown in as little as 3 years. Single stage paint is correct for all 60-70's muscle cars but in order to achieve the deep gloss wet look you must wax, and a lot. Bc/cc is a much easier paint to keep nice for a long time with minimal effort. If you are going to RESTORE the car ss is correct but it seems that more people are using the modern paint systems during rebuilds. The major question though is what do you like???
 

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piss poor maintenance is what causes paint to fail- every paint will suffer uv degradation over time. The major question though is what do you like???
My paint guys say clear coated candy's fade from day one.
I like cars that I can drive through the car wash.. I like to build the cars, but don't like washing/polishing all that much.. Maybe I just need less cars and prioritize myself to a couple cars, lol...
 

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I like cars that I can drive through the car wash..
ahhhhhhhh- I dont even drive my truck thru the car wash- thats a guarantee to scratch your paint.
Your paint guy is correct, somewhat, EVERYTHING starts to fade the instant it is put in UV contact- how fast depends on the level of UV protection in the paint and the frequency of sealer/wax. its like bring your baby to the beach you wouldn't let him walk around with no sunscreen would you??
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think I am going to just go with the SS. Got to look at a chevelle he painted last week with the SS paint and it looks great has a deep glossy shine. Should really pop once its got some orange peel spots sanded and wheeled out.

Im gonna be storing in the garage. Will not be a daily driver.
 

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I think I am going to just go with the SS. Got to look at a chevelle he painted last week with the SS paint and it looks great has a deep glossy shine. Should really pop once its got some orange peel spots sanded and wheeled out.

Im gonna be storing in the garage. Will not be a daily driver.
OO, I feel your pain -- :( -- I already know I'm going to shoot black base/clear on mine and I'm STILL trying to figure out which paint I'm going to use... Too many choices....

Bear
 
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