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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking at a 1967 GTO hard top. I know this is a hard question to answer due to the many unknowns, and variables. 400cu. in. tri-power ps pb 4 speed console. body APPEARS to be all metal,repro bumper (I think). Body is in 7.5-8 out of 10. Clean chassis, drum brakes, all lights work. INTERIOR--dash has Rallye Gauges? (clock indash,hood tach) repro dashpad, good carpet,BAD-seats appear to be correct frames however were reupholstered in cloth:confused. New tires on rallye one wheels. What else should I mention?? Someone give me a ball park guesstimate of price.....Thanks, Eric
 

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I knew the trips weren't factory in 67. I don't know yet if it is a #s matching car. I will find out. The PHS papers say the car was originally cameo white with gold interior.Headrest option with reclining passenger seat (no longer in car). I am not too concerned about originallity, mainly I want a clean straight body to work with.....if it is NOT a #s matching car, I will do a resto-mod. I want something I can drive.... THANKS for the input.....KEEP IT COMING!!! I have been out of the scene for 20 or so years. I am trying to overcome "digital shock" on the prices. Eric
 

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As mentioned above by GTO_Judge A 67 GTO in very good condition should bring $33K or more, for $33K the car should have the correct date codes and casting numbers; the car should match the data plate and PHS report, the paint should be in good condition and the tires should be good.

I would suggest deducting the cost of restoring the car to the above condition from $33,000.

I.E.

Nada value $33,000 minus engine rebuild=$ 4,000, brake rebuild = $500, new bushings = $500, transmission rebuild $ 500. New interior $2,000, correct rebuilt WT engine = $7,000, front clip R&R, $1000 and paint job, $5,000.

Hope this helps,
 

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Thanks! I figure the seller should give me the car plus 10,000 to fix it up!!! JUST KIDDING! All the help from you guys is appriciated. Eric
 

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I'm very likely wrong...but I thought that the first 2-3 months of '67 production that Pontiac did put Tri Powers in before switching to the single 4 barrel?

Plus where do you get a very good paint job for 5,000? What I've been quoted a couple of times for a Tyrol Blue over the non factory deep burgandy was 10,000! Maybe it'd be worth shipping my car to a less expensive but very good paint shop?

Enjoying this new site very much (I'm a brand new member)
 

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Not sure if this will help you at all. in 2000 i bought my very naked 66 for $2k. It had no bumpers, no interior at all, no grills, not much at all, and the engine was completely seized from sitting for too long w/o aircleaners, or a hood. It did have some things going for it though. everything that was there was original, and relatively straight/rust free. Some pics of how it was when we saved it:


whithout completely totaling all of the receipts, we have about $20k in the car after original purchase price of $2k, also not counting all the hours cause that was just fun. this one sounds like it is in MUCH better shape so If your smart, there should be no way you could spend more than me. Just FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The one I am looking at SEEMS to be in 7.5 shape...I am afraid of the "repro smoke and mirrors effect".....ya' know when you buy something,and find out that it is a tiwanesse quick fix and it disintigrates on the way home.............The car looks pretty nice...I will drive it next week (this week) and post findings........All comments are welcome. Eric
 

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The one I am looking at SEEMS to be in 7.5 shape...I am afraid of the "repro smoke and mirrors effect".....ya' know when you buy something,and find out that it is a tiwanesse quick fix and it disintigrates on the way home.............The car looks pretty nice...I will drive it next week (this week) and post findings........All comments are welcome. Eric
While you are there record the codes from the VIN tag, data plate, engine block, heads, transmission, differential.

Codes on the block will be located;

Front passenger side of block under the head you will have the engine letter code and the engine unit number.

Early 67 the casting number was located on the distributor pad, late 67 the casting number was relocated behind the #8 cylinder. The production date code is also located on the distributor pad.

The code for the heads are located on the center exhaust just above the manifold, should be 670 for 1967.
 
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