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I am in the market for one of these cars. call it a Mid-life, High school gotta have one crisis
I had a chance for a '67 at 16 and the bank wouldn't give me a $1700! dollar loan. :-(
now, 40 years later, I'll have to fork over 60k for a good one ready for the road.

So, which is best for you and why? I prefer the '67 but there is a smoking '66 tri-power that is very nice.

i also looked into the die-cast models out there and '66 is best represented, hands down.

I am new here and am looking for arguments on each car, whatever point of view, be it, looks, options, cruising, investment quality, or ?.

what should i be sure to look for in my choice?

thanks for the input. I'll be back to post the winner.
 

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66 or 67, you can't go wrong on either. I have a 67 convert as that's what came up in my search that was affordable to me. I do like the tail lights better and also the black grill surround. Just preference I guess. Oh, and the fact that it's the car I have LOL.
 

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Can't go wrong either way. bodies for the most part are the same except for grille, tail lights and rocker trim treatment. I am split too, like the 67' weaved stainless grille, and the louvered rear tailights of the 66' were all the rage and still are. They both look the meanest when they are flying up behind you in your rear view, like a hammerhead shark closing in on Stingray to eat it whole.

I say find the best deal on the cleanest (driver) car you can afford comfortably with repair/replace money left in your budget and enjoy driving it as it was intended. When you start getting into high prices and numbers matching cars you are getting a car you will not be apt to put as much seat time in
 

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The '66 was the last year of the 389/tri-power. The tri-power IS the GTO. Nothing better than starring into a tri-power that sits atop your 389. Nothing has the same sound when it is pushed wide open. And you can add the cold air tub. Unless a 3 or 4-speed, the down side is the 2-speed ST-300 automatic trans.

If you are not looking for performance, then driveline isn't an issue and you can most likley get a better price on a car with the 4-Bbl carb and automatic - which can still be made to be responsive and give good power.

Essentially the same in looks in body but many differences. I don't care for the plastic egg crate grille or the louvered tail lights.

The '67 was first year of the 400CI with redesigned heads that would remain this way until production stopped. Parts are easier to source and more available for the 1967 and up 400's. The Q-jet was introduced in '67 on the Pontiac and replaced the tri-power. The TH-400 3-speed was made available with the iconic "His & Hers" shifter.

I like the chrome mesh grille, rear tail light application, rocker panel/door stainless trim molding, and Rally II rims. First year for the hood tach which was a slightly different shape than the later 1968 and up tach/housing. Add the Ram Air tub and exhaust manifolds and its good to go for me.


If they had just held the tri-power over one more year........... it would have been perfection. :thumbsup:
 

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1967 was a Banner Year for Pontiac so there always seems to be loads of '67s on the market to choose from.
This choice could/should save you some cash while still obtaining a great Pontiac.
And if you like RED you'll be in heaven as it seems most offerings are now RED :suspicious:

Do Your homework & Best of Luck!
 

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They say pictures are worth a thousand words. But as jim said "If they would have held the Tri power over one more year it would have been perfection" Never the less a stunning front end and sexy tail. 4Bbl 400 holds its own.
 

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Not that I would buy or not buy based off it having the tri power I thought I would send this article . I think he may be a little bias but good info. I have owned both and liked both. At a car show you will be loved with the tri power . With the new 4 barrel I think you would be hard pressed these days to match hp ,.also remember the early 67 I think might have still had the tri barrel ( might have been dealer only install) option but may be wrong . Missed those days when you could ask for just about any thing you wanted if you had money and the right names . Doug

http://www.pontiactripower.com/tripower-myths
 

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Can't go wrong with either. I was looking for a '66 GTO convertible 35 years ago and ended up with a '67 because it was in the best condition for the money at the time. '66 has the magical 389 and tripower, and a nicer interior, IMO, with the chrome-ribbed console and cool seat pleats. The '67 has a more advanced engine and a cleaner looking body, mostly due to the grille and rear end treatments. Both are super-sexy and are excellent cars. My first car as a teenager was a Platinum '66 GTO with a 4 speed, tripower, and black interior. Loved that car!
 

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Everybody has an opinion.

So, here's mine. If you don't insist on it looking original under the hood, you can look at lots of pics of both year model bodies, to decide which you like best. AFTER you have chosen your favorite body style, THEN you can decide on what you want under the hood. If you like the '67 body better, but want Tri-Power---no problem. You can fit a '66 or aftermarket Tri-Power intake onto a '67-up engine. The block can be a 350, 400, 428, 455, or aftermarket, either iron or alum. Can also have either iron or alum heads, exhaust manifolds or headers.

Hey you can have an economical mild 350, a mild to moderate 400, or a 400-600hp long stroke engine, with three 2-barrels, a small 4-barrel, a 750 or 800cfm Q-jet, a big cfm Holley square bore, or modern FI of some sort.

Again, it all just depends on how original looking you want it to be, under the hood, and how much power you want. Today, almost anything is possible. You can even make it LOOK fairly original, but have a high torque stroker under the hood.

And if you find a nice original type car that you just can't live without, you can replace the engine, with the engine you want, and store the original for future sale, with the car.

Lots of options.
 

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I am in the market for one of these cars. call it a Mid-life, High school gotta have one crisis
I had a chance for a '67 at 16 and the bank wouldn't give me a $1700! dollar loan. ?
now, 40 years later, I'll have to fork over 60k for a good one ready for the road.

So, which is best for you and why? I prefer the '67 but there is a smoking '66 tri-power that is very nice.

i also looked into the die-cast models out there and '66 is best represented, hands down.

I am new here and am looking for arguments on each car, whatever point of view, be it, looks, options, cruising, investment quality, or ?.

what should i be sure to look for in my choice?

thanks for the input. I'll be back to post the winner.
1980, I was 16. I bought a 66 gto, that was in a lady's driveway I think 2 flat tires, it was white, no rust not even on the deck filler, it did have one very Small dent below the emblem on the drivers side fender.. black interior, power steering, power brakes, posi rear, ready for this? Tilt wheel, power seat, power windows. No rips at all in the interior, it was black. I bought that car for $100.... I have had a few muscle cars, but that was my favorite.. I never had a desire to buy one since, unless it was that exact one..but if I did it would be a 66, the only thing I like better on the 67, is the his/hers shifter. Which is what I have in mine... my Tempest was given to me by my son, he bought the car when he was in highschool..
 

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Wow, what a find. I drove a nicely restored 66’ with tri-power. Man! Those deuces really lit up when i stuck my foot in her. Too bad they didn’t keep that into 67. I am leaning that way. Now, it’s a question of what type, ie, original, restored, resto-mod, etc. There are a number out there and I have my list of must haves forming:
PS and brakes, factory air, parchment interior, 4-speed, Red, ?

If i had one it would not be for sale. That is the challenge. It’s not for sale, yet!
 

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Wow, what a find. I drove a nicely restored 66’ with tri-power. Man! Those deuces really lit up when i stuck my foot in her. Too bad they didn’t keep that into 67. I am leaning that way. Now, it’s a question of what type, ie, original, restored, resto-mod, etc. There are a number out there and I have my list of must haves forming:
PS and brakes, factory air, parchment interior, 4-speed, Red, ?

If i had one it would not be for sale. That is the challenge. It’s not for sale, yet!

Well, you are on the right track by putting together a list BUT, all of those items can be added.

Trying to find the "perfect" car having all those attributes might be tough AND pigeon hole you into a specific and even a non-negotiable price that the seller wants.

I am always leery of any car that has been "restored," or even rebuilt, because you never know what another person considers restored or rebuilt. The paint my look shiny and the engine detailed and new, but under the paint could be a car that sat outside in a field and not a single panel was free of surface rust or rot. There are so many process available today to prep & prepare a very poor shell and just about all the reproduction sheetmetal you could want to patch a rusty body together. Some good body work, a top quality paint, and you think you are getting one heck of a car when in fact, if you saw it from day one you have walked away.

This is not an attack by any means on those who take badly rusted or incomplete cars and bring them back to life, but an awareness of what you may be purchasing.......and the guy before you may have bought it thinking it was cherry, wants a price to match, and then you get what was once a rough start.

My preference is to try to buy a car that still has its original paint so I can see the condition of the "true" car - rust and all, and all the other rough edges. But these are getting harder to find. Or, you can hunt down a true & documented original low mileage car and pay for that pedigree and go from there, but, it most likely won't fit your list of items and you can add/change those as you see the need.

If you really plan on driving it regularly and look to keep your foot into it (isn't that why you want a GTO to begin with? LOL), then you probably would not want to go with something like a documented low mileage original car as racking up miles will quickly undo the low mileage and wear & tear will depreciate the value if you were looking to flip it or sell it to recover the price paid.

Again, my opinion, because I enjoy working on my cars myself and building them, I prefer a car that isn't original with regards to the driveline. I prefer to build an engine suited to me and my expectations of what I want out of it with regards to HP & Torque. I also want to know exactly what has been done to my engine and what parts went into it. I don't want to trust anyone else or take their word for it even if they have receipts as to the engine and what all was done to it. All that has been claimed of the engine may indeed be true, but that same seller may have also known he has a problem with the engine or did some major damage and just had it worked on so he could unload it before anything serious beyond what he repaired were to take place. So having an engine built your way allows flexibility throughout the build process and the knowledge of what you put into it.

Transmissions can also be optioned. Based on the HP & TQ of the engine, you can opt for a Muncie 4-speed, old/rebuilt original, or a new built aftermarket Muncie. If you choose, you can go with the 5-speed which offers the overdrive 5th gear. This is the best of both worlds with the ability to choose a gear like 3.90's for some real head ripping performance rowing through 1st-4th gear like the days of past, and then dropping it into 5th so it lazes along at highway speeds of 70 and above if you take it on a trip. However, both the new built 4-speed Muncie and 5-speeds are not inexpensive and with some 5-speeds, you will have to modify the transmission tunnel and some would prefer not to do this on an original rust free car/floor.

The 10-bolt factory rear is a weak spot if you begin to add more HP, and especially torque, over the factory ratings and then throw on those wide tires out back so your tires grab rather than go up in smoke. This has been covered in depth here in other posts. The later 8.5 is a much stronger 10-bolt and can handle much bigger HP & TQ. Then you have the 12-bolt and the aftermarket 9" Ford fitted with the GM brackets for a bolt-in application. Gear ratios of course should be matched to the transmission's gearing/choice and the RPM range of the engine.

And then there is the brakes and suspension choices. Stock, upgraded, or all out "pro-touring." Now if you buy a car in the higher price range and it does not have some of the brake/suspension upgrades, keep in mind that this will raise the costs of the car to you and you may not see the return when selling. Once you start to modify a car to fit your needs, it may not be as saleable to others as they might want to modify/upgrade the car with their way in mind.

So you want to nail down the purpose you intend to use the car and how it will be driven. This can narrow down what form of drivetrain you may or may not want to go with - stock numbers matching, stock non-numbers matching, slightly modified, resto-modded, street thumper, street/strip, etc.. It can also build in flexibility in your choice or narrow it down to specifics and those cars you would not want.

And...... DON'T ever tell someone what your budget is when looking for a car. No doubt if I had a car that met your want list and was thinking it was worth 30K and learned it was exactly what you wanted and that you were looking for something in the 60K range, you can guarantee my price just went up. So I would never throw out a price range and just be indifferent if someone tries to nail you down to a price range. LOL

:thumbsup:
 
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