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YeH , to protect all for right now is a good idea ,
If you want to trace them out later on,
Butt splice an ‘inline fuse’ on them,you could still keep all three separate or You could prob just use one 5A , just tie them all together On one side of fuse , run the the other side of the fuse to Alt with one of the rings connector wires you made , if that ring connector wire is a little bigger than all three you’re good , that will protect things for now , and let you get things going ,
eventually you’ll be best to trace em and move them to the wiper 20A ckt, I’d keep your inline fuses on them anyways unless you discover they already exist Somewhere like near the stereo stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #22
my thoughts exactly.
gonna wire all 3 into a 40A inline fuse and take a single 14g wire to the alternator post. I figure if whatever is on that circuit can take 40A my old Delco 10DN alternator put out, a 40a fuse is sufficient to protect. wonder if it will blow at higher RPM with the new 100A alternator when output is up...

Thanks, Jetzster.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
It's running! No leaks and fans came on at 180 degrees. whew.

I put a 160 thermostat in and it does not seem to have opened yet as system has not "burped". Any tips on this? has not had road time yet, but wanted to get thermostat to open and coolant flowing before hitting the road.

Also, there is a large amount of blow by or exhaust coming from behind the engine. not sure if this is just residual "gunk" burning itself off or if I have an exhaust leak.
 

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Congrats on the start up!
Sounds like an exhaust leak ,seems it should burn off gunk fairly fast,
gonna have to feel as best u can for any hot moving air , if there was a safe inert smoke spraycan test available it would show any air movement,
I’m not sure other than leaving cap off awhile
Shutting it off and on over a few minutes each time And maybe tapping on the spout? , I’ve heard some people first check the new thermostat opening correctly on the kit stove with a thermometer in a pot, once it’s in the manifold I’m not sure , others on here likely know some tricks, and hopefully your temp gauge is working ok
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Congrats on the start up!
Sounds like an exhaust leak ,seems it should burn off gunk fairly fast,
gonna have to feel as best u can for any hot moving air , if there was a safe inert smoke spraycan test available it would show any air movement,
I’m not sure other than leaving cap off awhile
Shutting it off and on over a few minutes each time And maybe tapping on the spout? , I’ve heard some people first check the new thermostat opening correctly on the kit stove with a thermometer in a pot, once it’s in the manifold I’m not sure , others on here likely know some tricks, and hopefully your temp gauge is working ok

Temp gauge and fan working great and the new water pump is good and leak free. went up from 180 to 200 pretty quick in driveway even with fans on, so a bit concerned there is an air block or thermostat issue...we'll see how it plays out.

thanks for all the help! very relieved the wiring worked out.

Now onto 4 wheel discs...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hey Jetzster (or anyone else), quick question about wiring that maybe you can help me with

My wiring is currently set up as in "A" in the pics attached. I have a mini starter due to headers causing the stock starter to seize, so I have a remote Ford solenoid on my inner fender. When I replaced the alternator charging wire (3 wire alt), it dawned on me that maybe it should be going directly to the pos battery post as in "B" rather than to the solenoid...or does it matter?

Also, when looking at Ford Solenoid wiring diagrams they show the main wiring as reversed as in "C". Wondering if this matters at all also.

Thanks!
 

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Ylw , I don’t see B doing as good as it puts
Both cables hanging on the 12v battery post
I would think A
Would be a better clean layout as then you’d only had the one big cable at the bat post , but ya it really wouldn’t matter ,
btw I don’t see the Ford solinoids ‘+’
post wired to 12v? Maybe it strapped internally?
If not Where is that post wired?

If I see it right
C looks like it is as the same electrically as A
Only In reverse , no difference there
Others here may see or know something I dont
On this
 

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Isn’t that the fusible link wiring. Looks like what is on my 69 Grand Prix. If you are going to replace it, use the correct fusible link wire. It will save your electrical system and maybe your car.
 
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