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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to pull the trigger on a 1966 GTO that has been previously restored (not professionally). The body is in really good shape but upon close inspection in the truck, I noticed that rear deck was pretty much rusted out. I'm not sure if this is a precursor for more major rust issues or if this is a relatively common area to see major rust damage. Any feedback? The numbers all match and the body, aside from the rear deck, looks to be in great shape. The car needs a new water pump, which is being replaced prior to purchasing it. Also, the cars interior is in near mint condition. Anything else I should look out for?
 

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64-67 Expert
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That amount of rust is from previous rear window/trunk leaks. It doesn't look bad at all to me. I've seen (and owned) much worse. Car is a base post coupe with automatic, so will never have the value a manual trans hardtop or convertible would. Plus side, it's a post coupe, meaning it will drive tight and rattle free. These are very nice road cars. Looks very nice and unmolested, though the guy who put the radiator in the back seat needs to be slapped. If it's in your price range and you like it, buy it! (Should be less than 20k, I'm thinking).
 

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Thanks for the reply. The car is a base model but has several options I like. It has factory air conditioning, PS, PB, Hurst shifter and the 389 tri power. Another question I had was regarding the heads casting number. The motor in the car has 092 markings but I've read that it should be 093 for a tri power motor. Everything looks original but I'd like to verify the engine is original. What's the best way to do that?
 

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If you're in position to work him on the price, use every little thing you can.

If it were me, I'd make a bit of an issue out of the rust repair that's been done.

That driver's seat is also an issue and it will need to be addressed. Someone skimped when they re-upholstered it and didn't use new foam. It also most likely needs the bolster springs replaced. I'd work that angle too.

It does look like a pretty good car though and everything can be fixed. ...for a price.

Also, those outside mirrors have to go! ;)

Good luck!

Chuck
 

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Hey Chuck,

Thanks for the input. I've tried working the price by pointing out every spec of rust or body defect I could find, but I didn't say anything about the seat details. The guy is very knowledgeable about the potential value of the car and he's holding at $21K. I think that's probably reasonable based on the car's condition. If that 092 casting engine is not the original, how much do you think it affects the value?

Best Regards,
Mike
 

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I'm likely the cheapest SOB on the site, so I wouldn't be comfortable at more than about $16k for that car. I am out of touch a bit on values though and am always surprised at what people are asking for their cars and at what buyers are paying.

When I see short cuts taken on easy to address issues, it puts the rest of the project in doubt.

Has it been on the market long?
 

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See here's the thing. In your first post you mention, restored - not professionally. These days, the more cars I look at, I almost prefer worse condition to unknown condition. That car "could" be full of bondo, you'd never know beneath the paint. the only flag I have based on your description and pictures is the package tray area. If someone is restoring a car to keep, to drive, to have (even not professionally) they pay attention to details like that package tray. Would you want to go to all the work to fix something just to have it go to hell somewhere you ignored? They knew that was there and did not address it. What else is in there no one's telling you about?

I am jaded though, so take it with a grain of salt. Also, as has been said here I wouldn't want to pay 20K for that car. I too am cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the help. I had the car put up on a lift today and it's a nightmare underneath. Rust holes throughout the body floor, incorrectly installed new brake lines, oil leaks from everything that can leak oil (it was sitting over a maintenance pad prior to this), and incorrectly installed suspension parts. I didn't walk away....I ran. Thanks again to everyone who responded.

Mike
 

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Was going to suggest that you take a good look underneath but you already have. what happens with these cars is that they leak at both rear roof corners and both front windshield corners. The water seeps to the floor, under the carpet and the car rusts from the inside out. This is difficult to see until you gut the interior. This can all be fixed but it is a lot of work and expensive if you can't do it yourself. You could spend a lot of $ making this car right.
 

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Here's the deal: automatic GTO's in '66 did not come with a Hurst shifter. It's the wrong unit for the car. Also, ALL '66 GTO's had 093 heads, not just the tripower ones. O92 is a big car head. You need to get the PHS documents on the car before you buy. I would say there is a 99% chance that the car didn't come with a tripower originally. You are looking at a slightly modified base '66 GTO with some incorrect parts. 21k is all the money for that car in that condition. Get the PHS docs and you can make an informed decision.
 

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Good Call, Tonyli!!! The peeling 'wood' lead me right past the '67 only turn signal indicator. And I realized the dualgate was probably a '67 unit, but didn't really look at it. I wonder if this car is really a GTO? The guy needs to get the PHS, if he ever shows up again.
 

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Did anyone notice the 67 dash cluster and 67 console.
Noticed the bezel. Have owned quite a few early GTO's, there is no value here, personally I'd pass on this '66. Anywhere near high teens, a buyer is going to be buried in it, that with a lot of work to do... Keep your eyes open, good factory color combo car, factory 4spd, fact tripower or base 4bbl, needing quality freshening up (legendary interior, dash bezel restore, lot of detailing under the hood), a car will show up, just got to find them before they end up in the puppymill builders hands :(
 
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