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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I searched for Zebart removal but didn't find anything on this site so, I thought I would ask the question; How should I remove the Zebart and other undercoating from the underside of my project?
I guess I was lucky the car was Zebarted, nearly no rust but this is gonna take some time to clean up.
 

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coarse sand will bounce right off it...i know (7 bags worth). i left mine and re-hit light areas... I would think some type of solvent or paint stripper would dissolve it but thats nasty and messy. Do not know if soda blasting will touch it. I figured it does the job it was designed for and has preserved the undercarriage for 45 years why fight it, to me it was'nt worth all the work to strip and paint but i did not take the body off the frame either. It also protects from chips and scratches as well as moisture, once the painted frame/underbody gets scratched from stones if you drive it, it will start to rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Blasting of any sort is a waste of time and materials. All it does is move the goo around. Even steam cleaning takes way too long and still leaves a film. I know diesel will melt it but it stinks and is real messy.
I would leave it if not for the incomplete application around the rear end. That area around the fuel tank and hard to shoot over the spring buckets has a surface rust so, I will be painting the complete underside.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Citrustrip, now that is a good idea! Got to start to clear the "old car smell" out anyway.
I wonder if they put it in a steam cleaner form? Not big on dry ice but I could leave the car outside for a few days during in the below 0 deg weather and try the chipping air hammer attachment.:eek:
 

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dry ice is -80 F i dont think that setting it outside will do it as the worst weather we have is well within the products temperature range. citrus strip brushed on heavy and let set until you see lifting then scrape. I think I have seen dry ice blasters on youtube.

yep

 

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My '67 GTO convertible is a Baltimore built car, was registered in Tennessee, and came to California in 1983, when I bought it. The ONLY reason it still has its original floorpans in good condition is because it was Ziebarted when new. The stuff is tough as nails, is a heat and sound deadener, and has preserved my floorpans for going on 45 years now. I have no plans to remove it any time soon........it's part of the car's history.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Talk about solid floor pans and rockers, check this out. The Zebart did it's job but the car won't be driven in the winters again or any time soon so off it go's.

I just couldn't do a nice job on the rest of the car and have the bottom look nasty. I'll do my best so not to over restore it.
 

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Seem to remember dad having all his new cars Ziebarted from the dealer, so in essence it is a dealer supplied option....;)
 

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I've seen some people use an air needler gun. Not sure how it would work on the Ziebart, but if you have one available it's worth a try.... My guess is it would have to be dried and not plyable to chip away.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Talked to a guy today that said to use a propane torch and wood paint stick as a scraper.
Follow up with stiff plastic bristle wire brush type tool. Still going to have to use solvent to remove left over film. Back to trying Citrustrip stuff. Good smell and non flamable. But, will it work?
Looks like I am getting close to a plan of attack. What do you think?
 

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I've seen some people use an air needler gun. Not sure how it would work on the Ziebart, but if you have one available it's worth a try.... My guess is it would have to be dried and not plyable to chip away.


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I don't think a needle scaler will work while it's still pliable but its worth a try. Anyone try easy off oven cleaner? pretty potent but don't know if it will work on ziebart
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Needle gun is out. Zebart is too soft and I don't want to do damage to anything. Thing about any solvent is, it won't soak into the Zebart, only melts top surface. I tried enamal reducer, thinner, diesel fuel and steam so far. I did get a buzz then throbbing headache.
Need to find that citrus solvent and a wide port fitting for a propane torch.

Keep'em comming. I like to hear new idea's.

Thanks
 

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I've heard you can heat the opposite side of the floor pan with a torch and then scrape it off. I don't see any solvents taking that off except a little at a time, keep us posted.
 

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can get Citrustrip at Home Depot, i have used it to remove 10 years of industrial floor polish from ceramic tile just test it on a small area.
 

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Too late. It's about all the way stripped off. He has to go all the way, now. I agree with you, Ruk. Like I said, the original 45 year old Ziebart on the bottom of my '67 is going to stay right where it is. Nothing wrong with additional heat, noise, and corrosion protection, in my book. I wonder what Fiesta would do??
 
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