What kind of idle are you looking for? Which RPM range are you wanting to improve? Any plans for a turbo or SC?

 

No turbo, or super charger. Enough idle so it won't stall. Running stock tune.
Looking to improve the low and mid-range power.

 

A mild cam would be something with a lift in the .530 range, LSA 115 and an advertised duration in the range of 280, this should be good for low end and mid range (1500-4500 rpm) with a mild idle.

I believe the LS1 springs are rated for a lift of .525, so anything greater would require changing your springs.

 

Of the cams on this sheet, is there any you would recamend?
I've done many engine rebuilds, but I've never had to research a cam upgrade. I'm learning as I go on this one.

 

you want to just change the cam or go ahead and change the springs as well? i'd change the springs and retainers for something lighter weight. the lunati lun55003 with 218/221 looks halfway promising for the goals set out. as one of our local tuners says "any cam should idle below 800 rpm" which i guess might be true with fuel injection since there's not too much worry on a vacuum signal. i feel like the durability for most of the cams on the sheet you provided will be there. roller cams are nothing like the cast iron cams of yesteryear.

 

Springs will definatly be upgraded nomatter what cam I install.
I saw this on THUNDER RACING's site. Any opinions?

Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft
"TR 224-112" - 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA 1700-6600 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Requires computer tuning on automatic transmission cars. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.

 

thunderracing makes some pretty nice lsx cams. there are several local boys running that cam in ls1's but in f-bodies and not a vx. most say they are good daily driver cams but alot will depend on how much you want to "deal" with the cam too.

 

What do you mead by "deal with"the cam?

 

He's talking about the drivability issues. If you get too agressive of a cam, it will shake and lug while cruising in the low rpm band. The more narrow the LSA, the more prone it will be. If it's a daily driver then it will be a sacrifice of drivability over power. I have the Torquer v.2 from www.texas-speed.com and it is awsome. I had to learn how to take off with it having a narrower LSA (needs more throttle) but the highway manners are just like stock. If I am idling below 1700rpms, it will make the car lug. Most noticable in parking lots when I forget to shift from 2nd to 1st.

 

I don't mind some shaking at lower RPM's. What's your opinion on installing a stock LS6 cam into the LS1?

LS6 specs:
Camshaft lift (in): .525 intake / .525 exhaust
Camshaft duration (@.050 in): 204'c1 intake / 211'c1 exhaust

 

ls6 cam in an ls1 isn't worth the trouble versus the gains IMO. cammed cars tend to surge also. even uncammed cars exhibit this. my mustang can not cruise the parking lot in first at 1000 rpm without the surging issue or me slipping the clutch yet it's completely stock.outside of the HOT cam from gm i don't think there's one that's worth the time to install versus the gains you'll make UNLESS there is a certain class you are looking to race in...STU autoX maybe?

 

:agree

Don't waist your time, for the money you'll spend putting it in, you'll disapointed with the outcome. I think a 230/230 .600/.600 should be where you want to be. Consider the stock LS2 cam is 222/202 .500/.500 116LSA. The LSA is what will effect your idle. As you can see, the LS6 isn't much bigger than the LS2. Are you going to stay N/A of go F/I?

 

N/A. After a cam, I don't plan on doing much more to the goat than I already have.

 

LSA will also impact your torque curve, a lower number will cause a fast ramp rate, too high on the .050 duration will rob torque from the low rpm range. A high lift will increase torque.

A good cam would be; lift=590-600, .050 duration=225-230 and LSA=113-114, these are close to the numbers of my cam, here is my dyno from last year.

 

Well put 05GTO! Every time I see your '66 in your sig, I drool!

 

Thanks for the compliment, I'm driving her today!

05, I found one with these specs. It's close to your recamendations, but the duration is a little high. (the price is right, though) Waddaya think?

The intake duration @ .050 is 224 & the exhaust @ .050 is 231.

The intake lobe lift is .340 & the exhaust is .346 which gives a 578 intake & 588 exhaust lift with stock 1.7 rocker ratio.

Advertised duration is 274 intake & 280 exhaust.

It's made by a company called PREDATOR CAMS.

BTW, Happy 4th!

Happy 4th to you as well, you'll be happy with that cam. Does the price include new lifters and springs? I would suggest new chromemoly pushrods as well.

 

05, I found one with these specs. It's close to your recamendations, but the duration is a little high. (the price is right, though) Waddaya think?

The intake duration @ .050 is 224 & the exhaust @ .050 is 231.

The intake lobe lift is .340 & the exhaust is .346 which gives a 578 intake & 588 exhaust lift with stock 1.7 rocker ratio.

Advertised duration is 274 intake & 280 exhaust.

It's made by a company called PREDATOR CAMS.

BTW, Happy 4th!

 

Price is just the cam, but I'm gonna upgrade the springs, as well. That's my other question. I've heard LS6 springs are a good LS1 upgrade. Any truth to that?

Once again, thank you for the advice.:cool

 

It really depends on the lift of the cam, I would go with the SLP springs because they are stronger and allow .010" above the LS6 cam.

The stock LS1 spring has a maximum lift of .525" rated @ 230lbs.
The 2001 LS6 spring has a maximum lift of .540" rated @ 250lbs.
The 2002 LS6 spring has a maximum lift of .600" rated @ 300lbs.
The SLP spring has a maximum lift of .610" rated @ 320lbs.

 

I should I be worried about piston/valve clearance?

 

You will be OK,

 

Thanks (again). I'm gonna install it and new valve springs either the 1st or 2nd Saturday in next month.

 

Thought this was interesting. Especially the 2 different tool ideas for supporting the lifters once the cam was removed. Anybody ever try one of the 3 methods shown? I wonder if I can fabricate the Thunder Racing tool they had.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

 

i'd use the compressed air device which can be had at a local parts store for about 10 bucks. as far as fabbing tools, anything can be made if it can be concieved. or just buy one, make a blueprint and send it back for the 2-3 buck restocking fee and move on with life.:cool

 

I already plan on using compressed air for the valve springs. I'm interested in fabbing the tool they have for keeping the lifters from falling. I was going to just spin the cam to hang the lifters in their retainers, but that article got me scared that they will fall. I'll either buy the thunder racing tool, fab one, or use 16 retractable magnets like they did.

Anyone ever replace their cam and just spin the cam to hang the lifters, and not have them fall? I'm curious how dependable this method is.