Found this on another forum site. This shows tire sizes and corresponding heights and rim sizes. The factory tire size on most GTO's was 26" for the 14" tire. This does not get into what you can stuff into the wheel well or if it fits without hitting - just tire specs.

 

HUB CENTRIC

A-Body - 4.75" Bolt Pattern -The stock rim width is 6 inches and later 7 inches starting around 1969/70 for both 14" and 15" rims.

B-Body 5.0" Bolt Pattern.

Bolt Pattern Torque/Tighten Sequence

Pic # 1 - 5 X 4.75 Bolt Pattern Torque Sequence Specifications: 1, 3, 5, 2, 4

You don't have to follow the sequence as shown as #1 could be at the top of your starting sequence - it is where ever you begin, but then follow the sequence tightening across from the last one you tightened and so on. Never tighten by going around in a circle.

Alloy wheels should always be installed using a torque wrench ensuring proper mount. Check your owner's manual or manufacturer's specifications for proper torque numbers.

Hub Center Bore

What is it? On your A-body Pontiac, and A-body GM cars, it is the wheel/rim center hole/bore and should be 2.783" to 2.786" diameter and fit snug over the front/rear axle center hub.

Pic #2 - shows the center flange on an axle that the brake drum and rim slip over.

Pic # 3-#5 - Hub Center Bore is the center hole in the wheel that centers the wheel on the front/rear hub of the car - that protruding circular flange that the drum slips over. Think of it as an alignment dowel pin which also supports the rim and car's weight. Since most aftermarket wheels are mass produced, they can have a large center bore to accommodate several different vehicles. IF this is the case, it is recommended that you use a hub ring. Hub rings are hard plastic or metal ring that fits between the wheel and the vehicle. This centers the wheel perfectly on the hub ensuring that there is no run out when the wheel is installed on to the vehicle. Without hub rings it is possible to get vibrations even if the wheel / tire assembly is perfectly balanced.

Hub-Centric Rings

Most aftermarket wheels have a large center hub diameter so the wheels will fit a variety of different vehicles. The Hub-Centric Rings are made to fit between the rim's center hole and the axle center flange of a vehicle - that gap created between the larger rim center hole and the smaller hub of the vehicle when a mismatch is encountered so as to ensure the wheel is perfectly centered. This not only makes the installation of your new wheels much easier but will also help eliminate any vibrations you may encounter. It also allows the rim to ride on the axle hub rather than ride on the lug nut studs which can fail and cause the rim/wheel to fall off at the worst time.

I personally had this experience in my youth when I used a set of aftermarket flat style chrome slotted rims that had a larger center hub diameter than the center hub flange of the front axle. All the weight of the car was being applied to the lug nut studs. Doing 55MPH in the 1965 Chevy convertible with the family in the car, the wheel broke off and the car dropped to the ground in an instant and control was lost. The car veered to the left and literally ran up onto the adjacent steel safety guard rail where it was at its starting point that began at ground level and then went up. A wrecker had to lift us off the guard rail and tow the car home - could have been a killer type accident with the family inside. All the wheel studs had been sheared off because all th car's weight had been put only on those studs. The day before I had been doing over 100MPH traveling back roads that ran along and through several lakes and no guard rails - that could have been a fun ride if the studs had sheared off then, and I hate drowning and sudden stops by big oak trees.

Hub rings are sized using two different numbers that are typically measured in millimeters. The larger number is the diameter of the center bore on the wheel and is the outside diameter of the hub ring. The smaller number is the diameter of the hub on your vehicle and is the inside diameter of the hub ring. These rings can be purchased from a supplier or have your local machine shop make the ring with your dimensions given.

The rings can be made of a nylon material because it is inexpensive, offers high tensile strength, chemical resistance, stiffness and extreme temperature tolerance along with low thermal expansion. It will not rust or corrode, and is also has a low friction property that helps with longevity and won’t rattle or squeak. Machined aluminum hub-centric rings are extremely strong, and won’t rust. They are ideal for those who participate in autocross, track days or tinker with their cars for more than the occasional maintenance and tire rotation. When removing frequently, plastic rings can get dropped, stepped on, etc. and are prone to breaking while aluminum hub rings are virtually indestructable. You can also have the rings made in steel if selecting a local machine shop to fabricate a set - I had this done for a set of 4-wheel truck rims having the larger center hole diameter for the 4-wheel drive hub so they would fit my '68 Lemans, but have since opted for a different rim.

Rim Spacers

Pics # 6 & #7 - I am not a fan of rim spacers. Get the correct rim/tire combo and know their limits. Don't use a tire or rim too wide and "I just need another 1/2" away from my frame and the tires will fit perfect." But if you do, get a spacer that has a hub-centric flange that your rim will fit on to. A flat spacer without the hub-centric flange brings you right back to the cautions above, all the weight of the car is now resting on the wheel studs because the spacer has mover the wheel off the hub center of the axle which is where the weight of the car is supported. Included pictures of a "bad" spacer design and as example, a hub adapter having the hub-centric flange for the new rim. Again, just get the correct rim and you do not have to worry.

 

More good info from Speedway Motors. The full article with pictures is here:

Wheel Offset vs Backspacing Explained

This guide explains the difference between offset and backspacing when measuring wheels for your hot rod, muscle car or race car with helpful diagrams.

www.speedwaymotors.com

Wheel Offset vs Backspacing Explained
We all know that choosing the right wheel is an important part of any car project. A big part of what makes a wheel "right" is the way it positions the tire in the wheel well. Too far in and it hits the frame, too far out and it hits the fender. We've all been there.
There are two common ways to measure this, offset and backspacing. These two terms are often used interchangeably to discuss the relationship between the rim and the hub where the wheel mounts to the car, but they are definitely not the same thing. We're going to discuss this here, with some illustrations, to help make sense of it all, but first we want to share some important wheel measurement definitions to help you with your wheel fitment:

• Overall Wheel Width: This is the total width outside of the wheel lip flange, usually 1-inch wider than the inside “stated width” wheel lip measurement the tire seats. This is measured without a tire mounted using a ruler or measuring tape across the wheel and is expressed in inches.
• Wheel Centerline: This is the overall wheel width measurement divided by 2 to halve the dimension, giving us the true centerline dimension of the wheel, expressed in inches.
• Backspace: This is simply the distance from the wheel mounting face (where it sits on your brake rotor or drum) to the rear outside wheel lip flange. This is measured using a straight edge across the back of the wheel (without a tire mounted helps) and a ruler or measuring tape from the mounting face to the straight edge and is also expressed in inches.
• Offset: This is the measurement between the wheel mounting face and the centerline of the wheel’s width. This one is a little harder to measure, especially on wheels that are solid or have small window openings between the spokes, and confusing enough to some it is expressed in millimeters that can be either a positive or negative dimension.

An Alternative Way to Determine Wheel Offset

Offset is the hardest wheel measurement to determine, so using the two easier to obtain dimensions of overall wheel width and backspacing we can then determine the wheel’s offset.
Let's use a 10-inch overall wheel width. This makes our wheel centerline dimension to be 5 inches (10 divided by 2= 5). Let's say your backspacing measurement is 5-3/4-inches. At this point we’ve taken two simple measurements and we have everything we need to calculate offset with some simple math.
Formula: Backspace – wheel centerline = offset
Any fractional answer (the 3/4 in the backspace) needs to be converted to a decimal equivalent by division first.
3 divided by 4 = .750
Our wheel sample: 5.750 – 5 = .750-inch
However, since offset is stated in millimeters, we have one more calculation to run. There are 25.4 millimeters in an inch, so multiply your answer from your first formula by 25.4 to obtain your offset in millimeters.
.750 x 25.4 = 19.05mm positive offset (wheel mounting surface towards the outside of the wheel)
If the backspace measurement is smaller than the wheel centerline measurement your offset would be negative (wheel mounting surface towards the inside of the wheel).
While the math isn't that hard, an excellent way to determine the correct offset and/or backspacing for your vehicle is to use the actual tires you plan to run and verify their fitment in your wheel wells with a wheel fitment simulator tool like the one shown here.

 

Speedway Motors has this tool that can be used to determine if your wheel selection will fit on your car.

• Easily determine proper wheel fitment backspacing specs for custom applications
• Mounts inside tire so that actual tire size desired can be test fitted to vehicle
• Allows user to confirm wheel and tire clearance to body, frame, and suspension
• Laser cut and press bent from 10 gauge steel in house at Speedway Motors
• Laser etched designations, including wheel bolt pattern, wheel diameter, and more
• Provides direct measurement of wheel back spacing to order new or custom wheels
• Wheel fitment tool supports 14 to 20 inch wheel diameters and 7 to 17 inch wheel widths
• 5-lug wheel bolt pattern fitments include 5x4.5, 5x4.75, 5x5, and 5x5.5
• 1/4-20 carriage bolts and wing nut hardware provide quick, tool free adjustments

No Longer Second Guess Wheel Measurements for Your Custom Build Needs
Much like wiring, measuring for proper wheel and tire fitment is considered a stressful adventure in the automotive hobby. It’s nothing for most enthusiasts to bolt on some performance go-fast bits, or even weld up an exhaust system, but when it comes to figuring out what wheel dimensions will work (or that aforementioned wiring) all bets are off and the second guessing starts in earnest.
Sure, some will throw a spare wheel that is lying around the shop on the car and check fitment, or even borrow a wheel from a friend. Still others will ask total strangers on social media what “should” fit and hope they’re correct. Why not take the stress and inaccurate guesswork out of your wheel and tire fitment with our new Wheelfit wheel fitment tool on your next project?
Accurate Wheel Measurements in Minutes with The Tire Sizes You Plan to Use
Confirming your wheel specs, including backspacing and offset, to order new or custom wheels can be accomplished in no time with our wheel backspacing tool. Simply assemble the wheel fitment calculator tool extensions inside the tire you plan to run and secure the sidewall clamps. Bolt the hub mounting plate to the extensions and you’re ready to mount your tire and take some measurements with our wheel offset measuring tool! It’s that easy!

Our wheel fitment tool is made from 10 gauge steel and laser etched with pertinent measurement points. The wheel offset tool is much sturdier than plastic models that have been on the market (that don’t use an actual tire) and is a much better value than the cast aluminum models as well with precise wheel bolt pattern mounting options in all major five-lug bolt patterns using 1/2-inch studs, plus 5x4.75 with 7/16-inch studs. These specific wheel bolt patterns and stud hole sizes create a much more accurate mounting versus universal slots that inject slop into your fitment check.

Everything you need is included in the wheel fitment tool kit to measure for 14 to 20 inch wheel diameters from 7 to 17 inches wide! Just supply the front and rear tire sizes you will be using, assemble and mount the tool with tire secured to your axle flange or front hub. Once secured with at least two wheel lug nuts you can check for frame and suspension clearance by cycling your suspension up and down with a floor jack (unbolting or removing your shocks/coilovers may make this easier). Turning your front wheels from lock-to-lock will confirm steering angle changes will not create tire to frame/sheetmetal interference as well. Easily loosen the wing nuts and adjust the tool’s backspacing for optimal tire clearance and then lock the adjustment down. Remove the wheel backspacing tool and measure your final backspacing needs to order your new or custom wheels.

WheelWise™ Wheel Fitment Tool Tire Fit Testing Size, 5-Lug

WheelWise™ Wheel Fitment Tool easily determines proper backspacing specs for custom wheel fitment Wheel measurement tool mounts inside tire so that actual tire size desired can be test fit to vehicle Wheel simulator tool allows user to confirm wheel and tire clearance to body, frame, and...

www.speedwaymotors.com

 

Here is a handy tool if you frequent swap meets or simply look to buy a set of rims, disc brakes, or drums and want to verify the bolt pattern size. It is real hard to eyeball the difference between a 4.5" bolt pattern and a 4.75" bolt pattern. I had found a set of 15" x 10" aluminum slotted mags that were in good shape for a fair price at a swap meet. Only problem was the the seller "thought" they were Ford, but was not sure - they had also been slotted. I walked the meet and finally found a vendor selling a plastic bolt hole pattern template and I bought it. Brought it back over to the rims, and sure enough, a larger bolt pattern than Pontiac, so it was most likely the Ford rims. If I had bought them hoping they were correct, I would have been disappointed. Many swap meet sellers don't always know what they have or what it fits. This simple tool can save you time and money.

Although hard to see, the bolt patterns are molded onto the plastic so all you need to do is rotate the disc to line up with the bolt holes in the part or rim you are looking at and know right away if they are what you need and the seller states, or not.

Wheel Bolt Pattern Circle Template Gauge Tool

This bolt circle template eliminates the need to guess what bolt pattern wheels, hubs or rear axles are. Includes 5 on 4-1/2", 5 on 4-3/4", 5 on 5" and 5 on 5-1/2". Made of high impact plastic. Learn more about determining the proper wheel offset, torque sequence, and bolt pattern for your...

www.speedwaymotors.com

 

Year One sells Rally II reproduction wheels in 17" sizes. Call them for the max tire sizes that fit your GTO as they have tested and measured them.

 

Here's the approved format that everyone needs to copy and paste, when submitting their combinations. Please fill it out accurately, according to your own specs. If you don't know a specification, feel free to still upload, but at least try and get the missing info so that I can add it later.

Submitted by @armyadarkness

1. Year of vehicle: 1967
2. Air Conditioning: No
3. OEM Rear: Yes
4. Dropped suspension: No
5. Front spring manufacturer and part number: UMI 4049f
6. Rear spring manufacturer and part number: UMI 4049r
7. Age of springs: 1 year
8. Front upper and lower control arms, make and model: Global West standard
9. Rear upper and lower control arms, make and model: Global West standard
10. Rim size and style? 15x7 Rally 2
11. Rim Offset? standard
12. Front shocks make and model: Bilstein
13. Rear shocks make and model: Bilstein
14. Rear shock spacers and size: yes 1"
15. Maximum front tire size: 225/70/15
16. Maximum rear tire size: 255/70/15

And here is the finished product:

 

Submitted by @lust4speed

1967

• Year of vehicle: 1967 GTO
• Air Conditioning: Aftermarket Vintage Air
• OEM Rear: Dana 60 but to stock width since I already had custom wheels
• Dropped suspension: No
• Front spring manufacturer and part number: Pontiac original
• Rear spring manufacturer and part number: Pontiac original
• Age of springs: 56 years old and counting
• Front upper and lower control arms, make and model: Pontiac original
• Rear upper and lower control arms, make and model: Pontiac original
• Rim size and style? Custom 15x8 black steel by Wheel Vintiques
• Rim Offset? .75" on rears (5.25" backspace)
• Front shocks make and model: Bilstein
• Rear shocks make and model: Bilstein
• Rear shock spacers and size: N/A
• Maximum front tire size: 235/60/15 Cooper Cobra
• Maximum rear tire size: 275/60/15 Nitto Drag Radials

Air bags inside the rear coils and the largest H.O. Racing rear anti-sway bar.

Urethane bushings front and rear.

Shaved outer rear outer molding lips and inside wheelwell tapped in past frame rail. Can load up the trunk and let all the air out of the bags and no tire rubbing, although at that point it's a tail dragger.

 

Submitted by @Miko66

1969

1. Year of vehicle: 1969 GTO Convertible
2. Air Conditioning: No
3. OEM Rear: Yes
4. Dropped suspension: No
5. Front spring manufacturer and part number: Viking Coil Over (From Global West)
6. Rear spring manufacturer and part number: Viking Coil Over (From Global West)
7. Age of springs: 2 years
8. Front upper and lower control arms, make and model: Global West standard
9. Rear upper and lower control arms, make and model: Global West standard
10. Rim size and style? 15x8 Rally 2
11. Rim Offset? standard
12. Front shocks make and model: Viking
13. Rear shocks make and model: Viking
14. Rear shock spacers and size: N/A
15. Maximum front tire size: 205/70/15
16. Maximum rear tire size: 205/70/15

Front Upper Control Arms: Global West CTA-42A
Front Lower Control Arms: Global West CTA-42L
Front Coil Over Springs: Viking Double Adjustable
Rear Lower Control Arms: Global West TBC-4
Rear Upper Control Arms: Global West TBC-82
Rear Frame Supports: Global West TS-82
Rear Coilover Kit: Global West COR-672V

 

Submitted by @Jim K

1971

Year of vehicle: 1971 GTO HT
2. Air Conditioning: yes
3. OEM Rear: no (Strange Engineering Dana 60)
4. Dropped suspension: yes (front)
5. Front spring manufacturer and part number: Hotchkis 1" lowering #1901F (512 lb spring rate)
6. Rear spring manufacturer and part number: Pontiac Heavy duty (station wagon)
7. Age of springs: 10 years
8. Front upper and lower control arms, make and model: Detroit Speed Kit # 030104/030105 w/ 2" lowering spindle
9. Rear upper and lower control arms, Pontiac factory
10. Rim size and style? 15x8 American Racing
11. Rim Offset? standard
12. Front shocks make and model: Bilstein (for 1" lowering springs)
13. Rear shocks make and model: Bilstein- standard height
14. Rear shock spacers and size: N/A
15. Maximum front tire size: P235 60R 15 MT ET street drag radials
16. Maximum rear tire size: P275 50R 15 MT ET street drag radials

 

Submitted by @67GTONUT

1967

1. Year of vehicle: 1967 GTO Hardtop
2. Air Conditioning: No
3. OEM Rear: Yes
4. Dropped suspension: Yes
5. Front and Rear Spring Kit Hotchkis 1in Lowering Springs SKU# 1901
6. Rear spring manufacturer and part number: See Above
7. Age of springs: 15 years
8. Front upper and lower control arms, make and model: UMI Tubular 1/2" taller upper Ball Joints - Delran Bushings - SKU: 403233-1
9. Rear upper and lower control arms, make and model: HPM Lower Arms // UMI Adjustable Upper Arms - SKU: 402600
10. Rim size and style? Front 15x7 Rally I // Rear 15x8 Rally I
11. Rim Offset Front BS 4.25" // Rear BS 4.5"
12. Front shocks make and model: Bilstein
13. Rear shocks make and model: Bilstein
14. Rear Coil Spring Spacers - about 2" under rear springs
15. Maximum front tire size: 235/60R15
16. Maximum rear tire size: 245/60R15 - Could fit 255/60R15, but never tried

NOM Engine with original Iron Heads

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Submitted by @67GTONUT

1967

1. Year of vehicle: 1967 GTO Hardtop
2. Air Conditioning: No
3. OEM Rear: Yes
4. Dropped suspension: Yes
5. Front and Rear Spring Kit Hotchkis 1in Lowering Springs SKU# 1901
6. Rear spring manufacturer and part number: See Above
7. Age of springs: 15 years
8. Front upper and lower control arms, make and model: UMI Tubular 1/2" taller upper Ball Joints - Delran Bushings - SKU: 403233-1
9. Rear upper and lower control arms, make and model: HPM Lower Arms // UMI Adjustable Upper Arms - SKU: 402600
10. Rim size and style? Front 15x7 Rally I // Rear 15x8 Rally I
11. Rim Offset Front BS 4.25" // Rear BS 4.5"
12. Front shocks make and model: Bilstein
13. Rear shocks make and model: Bilstein
14. Rear Coil Spring Spacers - about 2" under rear springs
15. Maximum front tire size: 235/60R15
16. Maximum rear tire size: 245/60R15 - Could fit 255/60R15, but never tried

NOM Engine with original Iron Heads

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Submitted by @gtojoe68

1968
This is for 1968 GTO Conv. I'm restricted to tire size in rear because of rim size. possible a P265 would fit if 15X8 rim?

1. Year of vehicle: 1968
2. Air Conditioning: No
3. OEM Rear: Yes
4. Dropped suspension: No
5. Front spring manufacturer and part number: Moog OEM
6. Rear spring manufacturer and part number: Moog OEM
7. Age of springs: 2008 (?)
8. Front upper and lower control arms, make and model: OEM - new bushings Moog OEM
9. Rear upper and lower control arms, make and model: UMI - urethane 402416-B kit
10. Rim size and style? 15x7 Rally 2
11. Rim Offset? standard
12. Front shocks make and model: KYB
13. Rear shocks make and model: KYB
14. Rear shock spacers and size: no
15. Maximum front tire size: 245/60/15
16. Maximum rear tire size: 255/60/15

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1. Year of vehicle: 1965
2. Air Conditioning: No
3. OEM Rear: No, currently 10 bolt from 68 or 69 Malibu (per part #)
4. Dropped suspension: No
5. Front spring manufacturer and part number: Stock..for now
6. Rear spring manufacturer and part number: stock-ish, from baad65
7. Age of springs: front - OLD (for now...), rears are newer
8. Front upper and lower control arms, make and model: OEM - will be replacing bushings at a minimum
9. Rear upper and lower control arms, make and model: UMI - 402418 kit
10. Rim size and style? 15x8 Snowflake, 4 1/4" backspace
11. Rim Offset? standard
12. Front shocks make and model: KYB
13. Rear shocks make and model: KYB
14. Rear shock spacers and size: no
15. Maximum front tire size: 235/60/15, some rubbing on full lock. One header tube is around the frame rail into the wheel well. No idea what brand/model of headers.
16. Maximum rear tire size: 235/60/15, might go a bit bigger when I get it back to correct ride height. The rear has always sat very low and the 235s are a tight fit.

Submitted by @DustyOldGTO

 

Submitted by @dadspackard31

1. Year of vehicle: 1969
2. Air Conditioning: Yes
3. OEM Rear: Yes
4. Dropped suspension: No
5. Front spring manufacturer and part number: Ames F327
6. Rear spring manufacturer and part number: Ames S364
7. Age of springs: 2 years
8. Front upper and lower control arms, make and model: Stock
9. Rear upper and lower control arms, make and model: Stock
10. Rim size and style? 14x? Rally 2
11. Rim Offset? Standard
12. Front shocks make and model: off brand
13. Rear shocks make and model: off brand
14. Rear spring spacers and size: yes 1”
15. Front tire size: 225/70/14
16. Rear tire size: 225/70/14

 

1. Year of vehicle: 1965
2. Air conditioning: No
3. OEM Rear: No will be a Strange Dana S60 soon
4. Dropped suspension: 1" drop front springs/ stock height rear
5. Front spring manufacturer and part number: UMI # 4050F
6. Rear Spring manufacturer and part number: UMI # 4048R
7.Age of springs: Fronts 2019/ rears 2021
8. Front upper and lower control arms, make and model: Fronts are original
9. Rear upper and lower control arms, make and model: uppers are Spohn adjustable w/roto joints and poly bushings # 626, lowers are South Side Machine lift bars.
10. Rim size and style: Front-15x7 Rear 15x8 American Racing VN501
11. Rim offset? Front 4" Rear 4.5"
12.Front shocks make and model: Hotchkis single adjustable
13.Rear shocks make and model: Hotchkis single adjustable
14. Rear shock spacers and size: No
15.Maximum front tire size: Don't know what the maximum size is as I've only had 215/70/15 on it.
16. Maximum rear tire size: 275/60/15 with some trimming to the well lip and inside the well.

Submitted by @Baaad65

 

Thanks Amy you're my hero

 

you're my hero

I know

 

Older thread but I figured I would add my $.02.
1. 1967
2. AC -yes but Vintage Air
3. Stock rear end
4. Dropped suspension- mixed
5. Front springs are stock worn out
6. Rear springs are UMI 4950 1 inch drop
7. Front springs are of an unknown but worn out vintage. Rears are 3 months old
8. Stock front suspension
9. Stock rear control arms. Lowers are boxed in with a sway bar added
10. Fronts are 15x7. Rears are 15x8
11. Front back spacing 3.75
12. Rear back spacing 5.00
13. Front shocks are Bilstiens
14. Rear shocks are KYB
15. Front tire is 225/60/15.
16. Rear is 255/60/15

 

Older thread but I figured I would add my $.02.
1. 1967
2. AC -yes but Vintage Air
3. Stock rear end
4. Dropped suspension- mixed
5. Front springs are stock worn out
6. Rear springs are UMI 4950 1 inch drop
7. Front springs are of an unknown but worn out vintage. Rears are 3 months old
8. Stock front suspension
9. Stock rear control arms. Lowers are boxed in with a sway bar added
10. Fronts are 15x7. Rears are 15x8
11. Front back spacing 3.75
12. Rear back spacing 5.00
13. Front shocks are Bilstiens
14. Rear shocks are KYB
15. Front tire is 225/60/15.
16. Rear is 255/60/15

Thank you for contributing! The frequently asked questions topics are always monitored and updated!

 

Yes they were. The fronts are the standard 105’s and the rear are 205’s. The cheaper 105 have a standard backspacing and are a 1 piece wheel while the 205’s are 2 piece abs can be ordered in a custom backspacing. They took about 3 months to come in. Also they stress not exactly identical but you have to look closer to tell the difference. One has a chrome outer ring and the other is polished.

 

Quite the up charge on custom orders! Geeesh

 

They were not cheap. But looking cool is worth the price!

 

So….. I am one of the unlucky ones
67
15x8 4.5BS
255/60’s on rear
Just slightly rub on certain conditions
Back to 245’s it is 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

I am embarrassed to say that ive spent more time researching wheels than i have on my wife's engagement ring.

After months of back and forth Ive settled on 17's!

I picked up American Racing VN215's--17x8 +8mm, rears and 17x7 0mm, fronts.

Tire choice is the next big obstacle! The Nitto NT555 G2 appear to be the overall winner, but i cannot decide size.

Looking for some advice. Hoping for as much aspect ratio as possible so to not look like rubber bands.

 

I can relate as it was tough for me to decide on wheels and tires for our 69 GTO.

See this post where it shows my set up using Year One 17" wheels and Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires: https://www.gtoforum.com/conversations/17-wheels-tires.180064/

 

I ended up with Continental extreme contact sport 02. I won't be driving my car in snow and they supposedly have decent grip in wet weather. I don't have an close up pic of them but as far as tires go, they look good. Only drive with them for a few miles since they were out on, but handle very well and no road noise.

 

Very nice! Congrats!

The Firehawks handle well and are quiet enough, not that I can hear road noise over the exhaust. ;-D

 

Year of vehicle: 1970 GTO Hardtop
Air Conditioning: Yes VinAir under dash
OEM Rear: Yes
Dropped suspension: No
Front Springs from Ames as stock replacements, front sat low with both original and new
Rear spring manufacturer and part number: Stock replacements from Ames
Age of springs: 23 years
Front upper and lower control arms , stock
Poly grafite Bushings - Energy suspension early 2000s
Rear upper and lower control arms, make and model : stock replacements from Ames with poly grafite bushings Energy suspension
Rim size and style? Front 15x7 Outlaw 2 American racing AR625761 // Rear 15x8 Outlaw 2 American racing AR625861
Rim Offset Front -6mm // Rear -19mm // Back Space Front 3.76" // Rear 3.75"
Front shocks make and model: KYB gasadjust
Rear shocks make and model: KYB gasadjust
Front Coil Spring Spacers - 9/16
Rear Coil Spring Spacers - None
Front tire size: 215/65R15 Cooper Cobra
Rear tire size: 255/60R15 Cooper Cobra

Tested through some high speed turns, no rubbing in front, previously had rubbing issue with 15x8 with 235/60r15 .

Lok